The trend for suede shoes – fashion archive, 1956

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In 1938, at Munich time, there had been no employment in the village of Killyleagh in Northern Ireland for twelve years. An abandoned flax mill was the only signal that the population had ever lived in anything but absolute poverty. But in that yr Czech brothers called Erik and Gerhard Utitz started in the deserted flax mill, a branch of the tannery which has been their family business in Prague because 1795; exports from Prague had stopped, and this was a try and keep their change with Great Britain.
When Hitler marched into Prague the Utitz brothers slipped out, leaving behind lock, stock, and barrel, however taking with them just one professional tanner. The little branch inside the converted flax mill became the main tannery for Uta suède. The villagers now not simplest had to be taught a wholly new sort of work; they had to be trained to work in any respect: twelve years of total unemployment had bred general despair. To wish, at that time, to have 60 professional workers inside years regarded just a chunk of Utitz optimism; but now 400 ladies and men work at the tannery, coming in by bus from a 10-mile radius around Killyleagh.
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And out from Killyleagh is going suède to all the leading makers of footwear at the Rome-Paris-London style axis. For suède is pervading all of the high fashion places. This is in part because of the fashion for footwear to suit the clothes with which they’re worn; suède can be produced inside the greatest subtleties of color. Again, it’s far partially because of the femininity of to-day’s fashions; suède, whilst it’s far crafted from youngster leather-based, is a gentle, almost sensual material; flexible, supple, lending itself to the maximum tricky designs for the maximum fashionable shoes. And once more, the pervasion of suède is in some part because of the chrome-tanning method at Killyleagh, which produces suède containing no resin and with no plastic floor (the foot can, so to speak, breath); and which, inside the new Uta-proof version, is water-repellent – after wearing within the wet it best needs to be sponged or brushed with a totally soft brush.
Pastel, peach-bloom, and mushroom crimson suèdes made the maximum captivating footwear for this most uncharming summer season. Autumn colorings are riper, richer: berry pink, leaf browns, ripe plums, lush black. Shoes themselves have taken on a medieval turn. There is a touch of medieval Venice in the long, narrow escarpin from the Dior-Delman collection in Paris; of medieval England within the town bootee, half of-way among a shoe and a boot, designed by using Charles Creed to go along with his autumn series.

It is a comparatively recent improvement for the London couturiers to collaborate with shoe producers. Michael, for his autumn collection, designed suède shoes, made by Norvic, with what he called a greyhound appearance – the closing phrase and cutting-edge line in tapering slenderness… Toes brought to a first-class factor, heels to a slender spike. Mattli confirmed suède shoes he had designed for Saxone in a new bluish-beige Uta shade; Hardy Amies, John Cavanagh, Norman Hartnell, and Digby Morton all designed shoes finished by means of Rayne, one of the new Associate Members of the Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers.
Mr. Edward Rayne said himself curious about the completely clean outlook given to shoe designing by using these 4 dressmakers. The shoes are actually in the shops, and the clients will need to be interested too, for they fee twelve guineas a pair. They are referred to as the Rayne Couture C0llection, and are being produced in what is referred to as a “confined edition.” But for those who themselves have limited purchasing power, the Miss Rayne Collection at 5 guineas will commend itself maximum warmly.
Miss Rayne, a mythical charmer, isn’t always a situation to unreasonable flights of foolishness. Her footwear is quite and youthful, but contrive to be practical as well as seductive. There are low-cut, instantly-vamped pumps in shiny colored glacé kid, with child Louis heels; and there is metropolis strolling footwear of tender cork-grained leather, with a brogue tongue wrappings over the vamp. And there is an in particular eye-catching version of the traditional black suède court docket shoe – or pump, as it’s far now known as. We listen a fantastic deal about “the little black get dressed” as an important of each elegant lady’s wardrobe; but it is the pair of nicely-bred, slim-heeled black pumps which guarantees that the foundation of a nicely-dressed look is well and truly laid.

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